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Re: Hot starting problem

Thanks for your thoughts and I would welcome the opportunity of chatting about this with you on the phone if you can email your phone number and what sort of time you are available.

On further trials today, I now find that I do not need an additional battery to connect to the coil. If I connect a separate cable from the positive side of the car's battery to the positive side of the coil, it starts every time even when hot.

This leads me to believe that there is a cable or a joint somewhere which is putting up too much resistance when hot, and I am by-passing this problem with the separate cable. But which one is it likely to be? And that is where I struggle. I guess it is between the battery and the ignition switch, or between the switch and the coil, but has anyone any firmer idea than a guess please

Re: Hot starting problem

Sorry, contrary to what I said yesterday it does NOT always start when hot with a lead from the car's own battery to the coil (it did yesterday!), but it does seem to start always when an auxiliary battery is coupled up to the coil.

Also, I have checked the voltage at the coil with the ignition on but the engine not running and it is 10/11 volts (my meter is analogue). This reduces to about 5/6 volts when cranking the engine on the key when it won't start. Are these readings about right and if so may the fault lie further downstream?

I would appreciate any help please

Re: Hot starting problem

Hi Richard
With your battery in the 'boot' - the length of cables involved will make volt drop problems the more likely.
Relocating the battery to 'under the bonnet' would probably overcome your problem, without actually find the specific cause.
As Steve says - running a separate cable may be bypassing the cause, but it hard to see what there in circuit that would get hot enough to produce a higher resistance of any significance to be worth bypassing.
It may be that the bypass cable is just helping to reduce the voltdrop at the coil while cranking takes place. Which is exactly what the booster battery would be doing.
The fact that hot starting with the bypass cable only works sometimes while the booster battery always works tends to show how marginal the problem is.

I still have a 'feeling in my water' that the coil may be the problem.
I know you have already replaced this, and that youhave no ballast resistor.
When you have a hot start problem - does the coil feel very hot to the touch ? If it does then this may be the source of your high resistance and would suggest that a ballast resistor may be required.
It might be interesting, if you still have your old coil, to very quickly reconnect this old 'cold' coil and see if you get a successful hot start.

All the best with this knotty problem
regards - Chris