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Re: rear wheel cylinders

I'd agree with Mel and use MGB or GT cylinders, his car has them and mine does

Why use Midget cylinders ?

Malc

Re: rear wheel cylinders

The information I have is that because the NG is lighter than the GT the rear wheel cylinders make the NG slightly over-braked on the rear. This could potentially be an IVA fail as this is one of the parameters that is measured. I expect that there are many cars out there that have GT cylinders fitted but if you have to replace them why not fit smaller bore cylinders to reduce the chance of the car swapping ends under hard braking?

Regards

Paul

Re: rear wheel cylinders

Cheers Paul,

Has anybody ever measured the wheel weights of a NG over an MGB or Spridget for comparison ?

Malc

Re: rear wheel cylinders

Let’s try and look at this logically.
The weight of the NG compared to the MGB is not the problem.
It is the percentage of weight that is transferred from the rear to the front under braking that you must look at and that is decided by how stiff the car “sees” that the springs are. This means that a lighter NG with a lower centre of gravity with standard MGB GT springs will actually transfer LESS weight to the front brakes.
Trust me, “I’m an expert”………..lol.
And if you don’t, just make or fit an adjustable brake bias valve to the standard system.
CBS sell them for around £35.00 easier than buying cylinders and modifying the rear end.
I hope what I have said makes sense Carl, that’s why I just said yes at first.

Re: rear wheel cylinders

Hi All,

I have it on very good authority that the 5/8" rear wheel cylinders are the way to go.

This was established when when the cars were first submitted through the SVA system. The issue is due to the car having a different front/rear weight balance and being lighter to the original MG – In reality this means the rear wheels lock before the front wheel which is an IVA failure…!!!! Also the IVA states an adjustable brake bias regulator is not permitted unless it is welded up to prevent adjustment.

As an aside you can go onto ebay and buy brand new Mini or Midget wheel cylinders for about £12- £13 delivered!! Well under the £35 suggested for a brake bias valve without the complication of setting it up correctly.

As the builder of the car this is entirely your choice and you should make your decision accordingly. Refer to your build manual and if still not clear talk to the manufacturer....

Carl, all the information you have received through the forum has been given for free and willingly by various members to help you out. Please consider joining the club now. Its only £15 for the year, approximately the cost of a reasonable bottle of polish or 3 gallons of fuel.

Regards

Paul B

Re: rear wheel cylinders

Hi Mel - as the self-confessed expert you might like to add a few words about how one checks the level of brake balance and how you would set this up given that a balancing valve is fitted
Ta - Chris

Re: rear wheel cylinders

I’m sorry Carl, have to hold my hands up. I was responding with what happens when you drive the car hard not to pass a test. I can tell you that whatever IVA requires MGBGT rear cylinders are not a problem in use. I have no knowledge of IVA or how they test as my NGTC is one of the earliest sold. What I can tell you is that when I used mine in motorsport the rear end never took control of the car UNDER STRAIGHT LINE BRAKING. Ok if you need to pass an arbitrary test that is not dynamic there are simple ways.
You could fit harder linings to the rear brake shoes or softer front pads to balance it for the test.

Well Chris as a scribe I think you are taking artistic licence describing my role as an “expert” as it was tongue in cheek.
Would you like to tell us about editing the mag in a few words?
It isn’t that easy is it?