Hi Keith
Thanks for replying, I was beginning to think this forum was dead.
I run mine at about 20psi, but it seems a bit skittish.
Years ago I had a Dutton and used to run that at about 15psi.
I will give 18psi a go.
Currently got engine problems, it went bang, bang, pop and stopped the other weekend.

Thanks

Martin

Hi, most tyres fitted to TC V8s are designed to run at approximately 30psi when fitted to 1800kg of sports/GT car. A TC V8 weighs not much more than 200kg per corner or less than half of what these large tyres were designed for, therefore 15psi is a good starting point. I use 16psi at the back and lots in the front (20-22psi) to lighten the steering and reduce the front grip to balance my cars tendency to oversteer.
By the way my pressures refer to 225/60/15 tyres, I think larger wheels and lower profile tyres look nice but are difficult to get a good ride and handling balance with a TC.

cheers
Mark

I own the gold TC you saw at Brands Hatch. I had similar problems. If you have Ally rims, have the tyre refitted using a rubber based beed seal liquid. I run 245/40/18 rear and 225/40/18 front tyres with 35psi all round and adjustable shock absorbers set on a soft setting for road. Ask any NG member who's been out in my car about the ride quality.
Reqards Alan

Hi Alan, I replied to this post the other day but nothing seems to have appeared!!
I remember your car, very nice.
I have the tyre pressures on hold for the miniute because I took the NG for a spin. Gave it a blast, missed a gear change, over revved and BANG POP SPLUTTER, no power!!! Drifted to halt, had a look under bonnet, looked ok, took off air filter to see carb, linkages etc., started it, spluttered and popped, did not want to rev, then flames shot out the carb.
After that gave up, got car towed home and put it the garage.
Have I broken something or is there some kind of rev limiter trip that may have actuated? or do I have some expensive bad news?
It's 3.5 Rover with Holley carb.
Have done compression check and get around 120-130lb on all cylinders.
All valve stems seem ok. Pulled dizzy out and then put back, got it to run, just, but I think I may not have put dizzy in correct.
Failing that, do you think a replacement engine is on the cards? If so, where is the best place to get one.
TIA
Martin

Hi Martin
Just seen your posting about your engine.
Don't know the age or condition of your engine, but a couple of thoughts:
Sometimes the advance weights rust up, high revs frees them off then they stick at full advance. Easy to fix but your problem sounds more serious.
Could the drive to your distributor be broken so it is not turning correctly?
I hope it is nothing serious.

regards
Mark Bates

Hi Mark
As far as I can tell the distributor looked fine when I took it out. I think I may have not put it back correctly, it seems to be a bit of a hit and miss thing. Engine runs, just, but it feels like the timing is out. The balance weights, mine is an electronic one with no points, will this have balance weights?
Engine is from an SDI. I do miss driving the NG.

Martin

Martin,
Unless you have full electronic ignition management, electronic distributors (eg Mallory Unilite) still have a mechanical advance mechanism buried inside.
Quick check, remove distributor cap, grab rotor arm and rotate clockwise. If everything is OK the rotor arm should rotate between 10 and 15 degrees then snap back when you let go. If not you either have an ECU controlling the ignition timing or you need to strip the distributor and clean and grease the advance mechanism.
Tip for correct fitting of distributor.
With distributor cap fitted, find no.1 plug lead (cyl nearest to distributor) and mark the distributor body inline with position 1 on the cap.
Before fitting the distributor make sure the engine is roughly at TDC for no.1 cyl on its compression stroke.
Fit the distributor into the engine without the cap but with the rotor arm fitted, with the distributor pushed home and rotated approximately to the correct static timing the rotor arm should point to the mark you made earlier. If so replace cap and correctly time engine.
I hope this helps sort out the timing before you move onto other checks. HT leads are a critical component but they normally only cause problems when the engine is under load during hard acceleration.

Mark

Hi Mark
This may seem a stupid question, but how do I know when No 1 is on its compression stroke?

Martin

Martin,
One way to be sure is by removing the left rocker cover and watching the valves of no.1 cyl. Also look at the timing marker on the front crank pully and position the crankshaft at TDC. If both valves are closed then this is the compression TDC, if the exhaust valve is closing and the inlet opening then you need to rotate the crank 360deg. You can tell when both valves are closed by trying to move the rockers, they should both have a small amount of free play, ie they are not pushing on the valve stems.

Mark

Hi Mark

Excellent, thanks for that, I will give it a go this weekend and keep my fingers crossed I get treated to glorious burble of a happy V8!

Martin