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Re: Steering Column

If it is the sliding tube arrangement, quite honestly the best thing to do is weld it solid at the required length as the SVA type steering wheel boss and Motalita wheel meet the requirement of a energy absorbing column.

Can't see what good the original arrangement would do in an NG, other than trap your fingers between wheel and dash in the dash in the event of an accident!

Re: Steering Column

Wouldn't a collapsible boss do the same?
I asked a guy on the Mota-Lita stand at Stoneleigh and he said they don't do a collapsible Boss so I presume it must be custom made by someone else for Findhorn. The price of the collapsible Boss from Findhorn is
"Collapsible Boss and Billet - 36 or 48 Splines £271.13 inc VAT"

Thats why I would rather fix the column, or get a replacement.

Re: Re: Steering Column

My column also collapsed some time ago when I was removing the steering wheel to work on the self-cancelling mechanism. I decided the best thing to do was fix it permanently at it's length (with small headed bolts if I remember) as the NG has 2 universal joints which would distort on impact as well as the collapsible boss.
Chris H

Re: Steering Column

Hi Chris,

Thats probably ok for safety but maybe not for the SVA!!!! Not sure.

Re: Steering Column

The SVA manual makes a point about approval markings but also states that the whole steering system (wheel, column, linkages and rack position) all have a bearing on the saftey.

The NG (and MG) suffer in that the rack is in front of the crossmember, so in a collision force is applied to the rack before the crossmember, however the 'kink' in the column where the extender is fitted makes a good break in the force line upto the driver.

They specifically mention the use of boss/wheel combinations that are independently approved from the remainder of the system. I suspect that these are what Ng are selling and they are approved irrespective of all the other parts of the steering system.

Re: Re: Steering Column

The two offset joints in the column fufill the requirement of not transmitting any frontal impact up to the steering wheel. The collapsable requirement is taken care of by the SVA approved boss and steering wheel which should have no holes in the spokes. On a vehicle that requires SVA testing it is difficult to see how it can be done without using the already approved parts.

Re: Steering Column

Research on the web seems to suggest you need either a collapsible column OR a collapsible boss for SVA. Have you looked into the price of a replacement column? I found This site that does collapsible bosses, MG not mentioned but maybe worth a call they retail around £75

Re: Steering Column

After a visit to Europa I found that Mountney do a collapsible boss, their M range. I may have to go for that but I did have my heart set on a particular Moto-Lita wheel, which isn't SVA approved although someone has agreed to lend me their SVA wheel for the test. If I go for a mountey wheel I will need to get an SVA wheel, unless someone has an SVA Mountney wheel they could lend me.

I may be able to make an adapter plate as the outer diameter of the Mountney is about the same as the inner diameter of the Moto-Lita, but I need to make sure that the centre horn all works.

How much easier it would be to get a collapsible column, or Findhorn to charge an affordable price for the collapsible Boss.

Re: Steering Column

Touching wood, I think I have found a solution which may be of interest to others.

I aligned the shaft, got a butane torch on it until very hot and used plumbers solder. It poured through and out the other side. By using a block of wood as a stop underneath I tried again, The solder stayed put, so I doused it with water to set the solder. All seemed ok. (I only did one hole). I then tap the shaft on the garage floor and it didn't collapse, so I lifted it about 2 feet and dropped it on the floor. Eureka it sheared.

All I need to do now is repeat the process and take lots of pictures during the process, and then do it for real. This should satisfy the SVA man.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. (especially Ray Blanks as I think it was he that suggested trying solder!!!)

Pete