It seems to be the current fashion to convert NGs to Rover V8 power, but I wondered if anyone out there has ever fitted a 2.6 Rover Stright Six? If not, does this mean that my TF is the only one and therefore worth double? Seems odd as it goes really well with the Stright six in it.

I'd also appreciate advice on wheels for higher powered NGs. I currently have some slightly tired 60 spoked painted jobs. I'd love to invest in new chromed ones, but wonder if a set of Alloys might be wiser.

Last thought. Has anyone thought of putting the V8 in a TA? I reckon it might make an interesting Hot-Rod!

A number of Rover straight six TF in 2.3 & 2.6 ltr forms were built when it was an option from NG and I am sure some are still in the club. It is quite heavy and possibly not the best of engines to come from Rover, but Nick Green did correctly engineer the TF to accept it. Over the years companies such as RPI (I think?) have made improvements to the top end and cooling of the engine which has solved its problems although they must be thin on the ground these days. However the six does produce loads of torque and produces a pleasing noise to aid its progress.

The Rover V8 is plentiful and has been developed far beyond its original designers at Buick in the ’50s could ever have ever imagined. Most importantly it is roughly the same weight as an B series or Ford Pinto OHC power plants, therefore it is a natural progression from these engines for kit and specialist car builders as it does not adversely effect the handling in most cases. Another important factor is that by fitting early water pumps, pulley and V belts it will fit in a lot of engine bays and of course all the conversion parts are available from the MGB specialist.

15”x 5 ½” 72 (MGC) spoke wire will be fine, many V8 owners use them with 185x60 profile tyres. Do check that your existing splined hubs are not worn. Unless you go for splined alloys, such as replica Dunlop racing wheels, (Expensive) you would have convert back to bolt on hubs.

A club member did built a V8 TA a few years ago. (Sorry can’t remember your name if you are reading)! This was also fitted with a supercharger and the subject of a good deal of experimentation as I recall.

Have thought about fitting a V8 myself and even have the engine to do it, but can’t bare to part the TA from it Triumph six after all these years.

Regards - Dave

Sounds interesting, thanks for the notes Dave.

Does this imply that the straight six is heavier than the V8?

I wonder what would be involved in converting from the straight six to the V8. Do you know, are the engine mounts the same?

Regards,

Ian

Can't remember any figures, but seem to recall that the six is heavier that the V8, giving the vehicle a bit more of a tendency to want to under steer on corners. I am sure a little online research could find the exact weights.

Not sure about the engine mount positions although some one else reading this may be able to give you a comparison between 6 and V8. On both types the bulkhead was recessed to provide extra working clearance at the back of the engine. Does yours have Land Rover style cotton reel mountings as fitted to the V8?

Conversion is likely to involve; Modification to a standard Rover V8 front end to convert to the early Rover P6/ MGB V8 configuration. Water pump, pulley’s & belts. Alternator mounting bracket & alternator. Remote oil filter & cooler kit. ’block hugger’ manifolds & bespoke exhaust system. New bonnet top and sides if you want the full flow TC type exhaust. Low line induction system (most people use the weber carb / manifold kit) and slim line pancake filter. Convert chassis to new engine & gear box mounts. Modify or replace radiator for V8 version. You may also need to re-align the steering column slightly. Re-wire engine bay to suit engine. Plus anything anyone else I have forgotten!

How much you spend on your engine depends on how much power you want. The more power you have the greater the need to up-rate the brakes and suspension.

Personally I would leave the Rover six in your TF as it makes the car rather more unusual in an age where we are herded ever closer to conformity and constricted by EU legislation!

'Fraid I don't know what the Land Rover "cotton reel" mounts look like.

I think you may be right. I think that the cost and effort would not justify the minimal gain. The 6 does go very well, although I may be looking at giving it a bit of an overhaul at some point. Can't say I have noticed any tendancy towards being nose heavy.

Regarding the brakes, I have just replaced the tired servo which was sticking and not cutting in at low brake force. Now, with the narrow 60 spoke wheels fitted I can easily lock the brakes at even low speeds. I can't see the brakes needing an uprate in a hurry.

Sounds like you are going in the right direction then Ian!

Regards - Dave

Incidentally, Dave,

Now the brake servo has been replaced, I can lock the wheels at 15-20 mph! The standard solution seems to be to disconnect the servo, but I don't want to do that. Do you know, could I improve things by replacing the 60 spoke wheels with the wider 72 spoke ones? Are they a direct swap?

Regards,

Ian

That seems a bit sharp and as if it is now over servo-ed for the weight of car (I am sure that's not a word!) and a servo with a smaller diaphram is required. Alternatively it may be that to much depression from the manifiold is acting upon the servo and it may be possible to restrict this slightly to dull the effort. Possibly a bit of research is required in this area. An American company, MP Power Brakes has quite a helpful web site with regard to such tricky issues.

I would assume that your current tyre size is around the 165 X 14" mark. With 15" X 51/2 72 spoke wires you can go up to 185/70 15's which will improve the situation and cause no problems with rubbing.