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Re: Re: Re: Rover Straight Six

Can't remember any figures, but seem to recall that the six is heavier that the V8, giving the vehicle a bit more of a tendency to want to under steer on corners. I am sure a little online research could find the exact weights.

Not sure about the engine mount positions although some one else reading this may be able to give you a comparison between 6 and V8. On both types the bulkhead was recessed to provide extra working clearance at the back of the engine. Does yours have Land Rover style cotton reel mountings as fitted to the V8?

Conversion is likely to involve; Modification to a standard Rover V8 front end to convert to the early Rover P6/ MGB V8 configuration. Water pump, pulley’s & belts. Alternator mounting bracket & alternator. Remote oil filter & cooler kit. ’block hugger’ manifolds & bespoke exhaust system. New bonnet top and sides if you want the full flow TC type exhaust. Low line induction system (most people use the weber carb / manifold kit) and slim line pancake filter. Convert chassis to new engine & gear box mounts. Modify or replace radiator for V8 version. You may also need to re-align the steering column slightly. Re-wire engine bay to suit engine. Plus anything anyone else I have forgotten!

How much you spend on your engine depends on how much power you want. The more power you have the greater the need to up-rate the brakes and suspension.

Personally I would leave the Rover six in your TF as it makes the car rather more unusual in an age where we are herded ever closer to conformity and constricted by EU legislation!

Re: Re: Re: Re: Rover Straight Six

'Fraid I don't know what the Land Rover "cotton reel" mounts look like.

I think you may be right. I think that the cost and effort would not justify the minimal gain. The 6 does go very well, although I may be looking at giving it a bit of an overhaul at some point. Can't say I have noticed any tendancy towards being nose heavy.

Regarding the brakes, I have just replaced the tired servo which was sticking and not cutting in at low brake force. Now, with the narrow 60 spoke wheels fitted I can easily lock the brakes at even low speeds. I can't see the brakes needing an uprate in a hurry.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Rover Straight Six

Sounds like you are going in the right direction then Ian!

Regards - Dave

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Rover Straight Six

Incidentally, Dave,

Now the brake servo has been replaced, I can lock the wheels at 15-20 mph! The standard solution seems to be to disconnect the servo, but I don't want to do that. Do you know, could I improve things by replacing the 60 spoke wheels with the wider 72 spoke ones? Are they a direct swap?

Regards,

Ian

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Rover Straight Six

That seems a bit sharp and as if it is now over servo-ed for the weight of car (I am sure that's not a word!) and a servo with a smaller diaphram is required. Alternatively it may be that to much depression from the manifiold is acting upon the servo and it may be possible to restrict this slightly to dull the effort. Possibly a bit of research is required in this area. An American company, MP Power Brakes has quite a helpful web site with regard to such tricky issues.

I would assume that your current tyre size is around the 165 X 14" mark. With 15" X 51/2 72 spoke wires you can go up to 185/70 15's which will improve the situation and cause no problems with rubbing.